The power of organisms that survive in extreme environments like arctic cold, volcanic heat or high-radiation areas can be harnessed in skin care, where their superpower survival abilities can help fortify and hydrate skin. “The theory is that these enzymes have developed unique protective properties that could benefit the skin,” says Omaha, NE dermatologist Joel Schlessinger, MD, noting that the data behind them is limited, but growing. Here’s what we know so far.
Extremozymes, Explained
“Extremozymes are enzymes made by extremeophilic—extreme-loving—plants that survive in very harsh environments, such as the bottom of the ocean, deserts, high in the Swiss Alps or in the hot pots of Yellowstone,” says Dr. Charlene DeHaven, clinical director at iS Clinical. Their ability to thrive in extreme weather gives them a strong resistance to harsh conditions.
Basically, “extremozymes make the inhospitable biologically cozy,” says Chase Polan, founder, CEO and lead alchemist of KYPRIS. “From a cosmetic perspective, extremozymes may catalyze an array of beauty benefits such as collagen production, DNA repair, exfoliation and some antioxidant-like properties.” Their molecular resilience, which allows them to remain active under harsh conditions, is what makes them valuable in skin care, as they can help protect and repair skin exposed to environmental stressors, like temperature, explains Dr. Nancy Ilaya, scientific director at Kiehl’s.
Extremolytes, Explained
“Extremozymes are fighters and extremolytes are protectors,” explains cosmetic chemist Ginger King. “Extremolytes mostly have to do with preserving hydration under harsh conditions, and they do so by their structure, which retains water,” says Dr. DeHaven.
Cosmetic chemist Joyce De Lemos adds that ”although extremozymes and extremolytes can both help arm the skin against cell damage, they are differentiated by their structure and mechanisms of action.” Extremolytes’ main job is to keep cells stable and hydrated when the water level of skin is low due to harsh weather, explains King. “For different reasons, such as unique freezing point behaviors, humectancy, etc., glycerin, glycols, ectoin, betaine and mannitol are ingredients that would be considered extremolytes,” adds cosmetic chemist Victoria Fu.
Dr. Ilaya says extremolytes are “also known as chemical chaperones or buffers and are emerging in more skin-care formulations to help support and strengthen the skin barrier against environmental aggressors, oxidative stress and dehydration.” Polan notes extremolytes are shown to benefit even the most sensitive, reactive skin types.
Arctic Ingredients in Skin Care
“When natural ingredients can sustain through harsh conditions, they have a built-in self-defense mechanism; thus, cosmetic ingredient suppliers often look into this area for new innovation,” says King. “In skin care, these ingredients are being used and studied for their protective and stabilizing qualities,” says Brian Goodwin, international educator at Éminence Organic Skin Care. “They can help reduce transepidermal water loss, provide antioxidant protection and defend skin against UV damage and environmental stress, especially when formulated with other active ingredients.”
Edelweiss
Edelweiss is more than just a dulcet lullaby from The Sound of Music, the small white flower native to the Alps and seen across other mountain ranges is a “powerful alpine antioxidant known for its ability to protect skin from oxidative stress and environmental damage,” says True Botanicals VP of R&D Kara Curry, which makes it great for True Botanicals Renew Repair Nightly Treatment ($145). It helps strengthen the skin barrier, and its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties make it ideal for overnight repair, she adds. It’s also “packed with phytochemicals that provide antioxidant protection and help prevent dehydration, which is especially beneficial during the winter when skin needs an extra layer of protection,” says Goodwin.
Haberlea Rhodopensis
This extremozyme is derived from a plant that lives in the high, dry Swiss Alps, says Dr. DeHaven. Harberlea rhodopensis leaf extract can be found in iS Clinical Daily Dynamic Hydrator ($135) along with a special blend sourced from extreme heat and Nordic areas. Together, these ingredients help protect skin from heat, cold, dryness, wind, pollution and free radical damage.
Glacial Glycoprotein
Originally discovered and derived from glacial Antarctic bacteria, glacial glycoprotein is a “recognized natural antifreeze molecule that protects cellular integrity in extreme cold,” says Dr. Ilaya. “By preventing ice crystal formation in the glacial bacteria, it enables survival in sub-zero environments.” Today, Kiehl’s is able to engineer the ingredient in a lab to formulate it in a variety of products, including Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream ($72). It’s used to “help maintain long-term hydration and barrier support in any environmental condition, making it a valuable active for defending skin against environmental stress, and ideal for sensitive and eczema-prone skin.”
Rhodiola Rosea
Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos dubs rhodiola rosea a powerful antioxidant. “An Arctic plant known for growing on rocky, high-altitude slopes, rhodiola rosea is recognized for its adaptogenic and antioxidant properties,” says Skyn Iceland R&D team of the ingredient that appears in their upcoming 2026 launches. “Its stem cell extract has shown potential to normalize sebum production, refine pore size and enhance skin hydration and elasticity, by regulating key lipid and stress-response pathways. Rhodiola rosea can be found in calming products like Mario Badescu Skin Care Facial Spray Aloe Adaptogens and Coconut Water ($9).
Sea Buckthorn
Cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson points to sea buckthorn, sometimes referred to as Siberian pineapple, as a great protector. It’s a prime example of an ingredient that thrives in arctic climates and therefore offers powerful antioxidant benefits along with hydration and barrier repair, says Robinson. Find it in Odacité Omega Oil Cleanser Montana Harvest ($48).
Arnica
Arnica montana’s ability to overwinter helps it survive in alpine regions. In skin care, it’s beloved as a post-care ingredient recommended by doctors following in-office treatments. Founder and formulator at Alpyn Beauty, Kendra Kolb, explains that it “helps with bruising, swelling and redness and is known for its anti-inflammatory and circulation boosting properties.” Alastin INhance Post-Injection Serum ($72) is a prime example of how arnica can help skin heal after a treatment.
Astaxanthin
Skyn Iceland’s R&D team calls astaxanthin “one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants,” which is why it’s featured in their Icelandic Youth Serum ($52). “It’s derived from Haematococcus pluvialis, a radiation-resistant Arctic microalga classified as a UV-tolerant extremophile. It synthesizes astaxanthin as a survival pigment to defend against extreme light and oxidative stress,” they explain. Studies show its ability to protect collagen and reduce visible signs of skin aging.
White Willow Bark
White willow bark is “A cold-tolerant species rich in natural BHA provides mild exfoliation, anti-inflammatory action and pore-refining benefits,” says the Skyn Iceland R&D team. It possesses the power to gently and effectively renew skin’s surface. It’s a highlight of KYPRIS Clearing Serum’s ($90) formula.
Dwarf Soapwort
Kolb says this alpine plant is known for surviving glacial conditions. It can help support cellular stress and maintain mitochondrial function. Try it in Clarins’ One-Step Gentle Exfoliating Cleanser ($39).
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
“Part of our 2026 pipeline comes from a marine cold-adapted bacterium isolated in deep-sea polar environments,” says Skyn Iceland R&D of Pseudoalteromonas ferment extract. “It’s rich in exopolysaccharides and proteins that help enhance hydration, skin regeneration and epidermal repair, especially under cold or dry conditions.” Experience it in Biologique Recherche Serum Matriciel Visage ($250).
Cloudberries
King says arctic berries are often used in skin care for their vitamin C and hydration benefits for stressed skin. “The arctic cloudberry is adapted to short summers and frozen soil. It concentrates omega fatty acids, polyphenols and vitamin E in its seeds. In skin care, its seed oil helps reinforce the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss and soothe seasonal irritation,” says Skyn Iceland’s R&D team. Eminence Arctic Berry Peptide Radiance Cream ($105) is packed with four arctic plants, including cloudberries.
Ghostberries
Also known as snowberries, these little superstars help support barrier protection and provide soothing effects, says Kolb. “This resilient plant species thrives in the extreme climate of Jackson Hole, tolerating both freezing temperatures and high levels of UV radiation,” says Kolb, who uses them in ALPYN Barrier Repair Cream ($62). “Ghostberry has been shown to contain saponins and phenolic compounds, which are known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing effects. These properties make it an excellent ingredient for barrier repair formulations, helping to calm irritation, support skin resilience and strengthen the skin’s natural defenses against environmental stress.”
